I'm not the Only One Who Likes to Surf

Overcoming jetlag means forcing myself to stay up until a reasonable bedtime. I figured it was unlikely I would fall asleep on my surfboard so I paddled out to the bowl with Matt. Even though the waves were larger than ideal for Matt, it’s a good board for crowds since it catches waves so well that I can position myself to get on the wave before other surfers. However, there’s a limit to what I can do even with Matt and the day I returned from my trip to California was just not my day for surfing. With a smaller crowd I could have surfed those waves and with smaller waves I could have surfed with that crowd but the combination was not working for me. Oh well, it’s still good to get wet.